In some quarters it’s become almost knee-jerk to denigrate Yokohama’s Chinatown. Too clean and tidy, they sneer, it feels like a theme park. It’s just for tourists.

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And, the most serious charge of all, the food just isn’t authentic. To which the Food File would retort: Perhaps so; not necessarily; and that depends on where you eat.The twin peaks of top-flight dining in Chinatown are Manchirou and Heichinrou. There’s very little to choose between them, either in terms of their elegant Cantonese cooking, their unashamedly lavish hotel-lobby decor, or the impersonal smoothness of their well-greased operations. If we tend to favor the latter, it is because of the bold declaration on the menu that says Heichinrou shuns the use of MSG and artificial additives. No matter how accomplished and refined their food may be, Chinese food on this level is always best appreciated in large groups, preferably on expense accounts. So what to do if you’re a couple or, heaven help you, if you’re exploring the area solo?

There are too many smaller restaurants that serve up well-intentioned, if not formulaic, meals for visitors who aren’t interested in the full-blown Chinese food experience. How to navigate your way around? Just follow your eyes and your nose.If you’re walking down Chinatown’s main street, Chukagai-Odori, you can’t miss Tung Fat (known in Japanese as Dohatsu Honkan).

And you won’t be the only one to stop, marvel and salivate at the window display of chickens, ducks, spare ribs and sausages, all cured a bright, festive red. There are also trays of assorted tripe and animal innards.

This is a place that isn’t shy of advertising that it deals in real food.The scale is modest and the decor is restrained: Here you can relax and roll up your sleeves. Although they offer full-course meals of standard-issue Cantonese fare, unfortunately they feature few of those appetizing dried meats arrayed in the window. So it’s far better to order a la carte from their pictorial menu.Start with a portion of the sausage (cho- zume in Japanese) and one of duck (ahiru) — both available in half-plate portions. The duck is served with a small saucer of sweet plum sauce that nicely offsets any residual fat; the pink, fatty pork sausage is rich and chewy. Both are delectable.Follow that up with an order for some of their deep-fried yuba rolls, stuffed with a moist mixture of egg, cabbage, shrimp and ham; some wok-fried greens; and a bowl of their mixed (go- moku) noodle soup.

Add a couple of bottles of beer or some Shaoxing rice wine (shokoshu in Japanese), and you will leave happy and replete.It cannot be denied that Chinatown has lost some of its atmosphere and former patina — grubbiness, many would say — as it’s been smartened up. That gentrification process was accelerated with the opening of the new Minato-Mirai subway line straight through from Shibuya, which opened to great fanfare a year ago this week. But explore the back alleys, and there are still pockets that remain untouched by the clean-up.It’s easy to overlook Togenton, tucked away on the side street known as Shanghai-dori. It is currently celebrating its 45th anniversary and, frankly, it does look its age. Even so, it remains one of our longtime favorites, precisely because of its homey appearance and the cramped intimacy of its few tables.This is one of the few places in the area where you can eat Chinese style congee (kayu in Japanese) complete with you-tiao, those long, deep-fried dough sticks that are an essential part of breakfast to countless millions in Shanghai and northern China.

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So what if Togenton doesn’t open till lunchtime?